First time
A first surf lesson became a weekend ritual.
I booked the lesson on a Tuesday, full of bravado. By Saturday I was terrified. Three months later I owned a wetsuit.
Iris Lin
5 min read
There's a particular kind of shame in being the worst person in a beginner class. I felt it strongly, until I noticed the instructor wasn't keeping score.
The fourth weekend I caught my first wave properly. The board didn't wobble. I stood up. I rode it for what was probably three seconds and felt like flying.
Now I drive down most Saturdays. Sometimes I don't catch anything. It doesn't matter — I'm in the water with people I'd otherwise never have met.
